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[GK4Herd]

I have a question for you. I’m assuming that you have a little knowledge on staining and finishing. I’m getting rid of all the carpet in my living room, dining room, and bedrooms and putting in some engineered bamboo hardwood. My problem is the stairs from my entree way. I’m going to retrofit them with wood also. I’ve priced the finished treads to match the color of my new floors and they run $90 to $100 per tread. I have 12 stairs. However, I’m also exploring getting unfinished red oak or poplar treads and staining and finishing them myself. The unfinished treads are $30. This would be a nice savings.

My question is...for a high traffic area, after I stain them, how many coats of polyurethane should I put on them? Do I sand between coats? If so, 100 grit? Is this a something a do it yourselfer should even tackle?

In other words, what do I need to be aware of if I tackle it?

 

[Y.A.G Si Ye Nots]

my entree way.

Unless you plan on eating it, I recommend "entryway."

 

[Dreh_Nagi_HC_IM]

I actually put in Bamboo hardwood floors myself last year, and had a similar predicament on the staircase. Matching treads were going to cost me close to 2 grand, which we were going to do, but once the contractor came out to look at them, he told me my steps would have to be redone, prior to being able to place treads, due to them placing it out of code, and being an issue if ever re-selling the house. Just saying this, because you may want to check that aspect out. As for staining, I personally wouldn't go that route, especially if your steps are privy to any sunlight. If you do, you'll need at least two coats, and you'll want a finish that's not slippery. I actually ended up going with carpet on the steps, since my project went from 2 grand to about 4.

 

[GK4Herd]

Unless you plan on eating it, I recommend "entryway."

I start eating as soon as I come in the house. So technically I’m correct.

 

[GK4Herd]

I actually put in Bamboo hardwood floors myself last year, and had a similar predicament on the staircase. Matching treads were going to cost me close to 2 grand, which we were going to do, but once the contractor came out to look at them, he told me my steps would have to be redone, prior to being able to place treads, due to them placing it out of code, and being an issue if ever re-selling the house. Just saying this, because you may want to check that aspect out. As for staining, I personally wouldn't go that route, especially if your steps are privy to any sunlight. If you do, you'll need at least two coats, and you'll want a finish that's not slippery. I actually ended up going with carpet on the steps, since my project went from 2 grand to about 4.

Did you use Cali Bamboo? I have 1400 pounds (700 sq/ft) being delivered next Tuesday. I ordered it directly from Cali Bamboo. It saved me a dollar a sq/ft over the Lowe’s price for the same stuff. It cost $150 shipping, but still a substantial savings.

How is yours holding up? I chose it because of the consistently good ratings as well as the off the chart hardness of the wood. It rates 5 on the Janka scale.

 

[Dreh_Nagi_HC_IM]

Did you use Cali Bamboo? I have 1400 pounds (700 sq/ft) being delivered next Tuesday. I ordered it directly from Cali Bamboo. It saved me a dollar a sq/ft over the Lowe’s price for the same stuff. It cost $150 shipping, but still a substantial savings.

How is yours holding up? I chose it because of the consistently good ratings as well as the off the chart hardness of the wood. It rates 5 on the Janka scale.

That's exactly what I have, dark and hard, just like Fever. Make sure you let the wood acclimate for as long as it takes, or you'll be in for a long term nightmare. Also, if you don't have a humidifier on your furnace, call your local HVAC person and get one installed ASAP. You must keep your home between 45 & 55 humidity level, or your boards will be a lovely mess.

 

[extragreen]

My question is...for a high traffic area, after I stain them, how many coats of polyurethane should I put on them?

There is oil based poly and water based poly. Oil base-minimum 2 coats. Water based-minimum 3 coats (But check directions on can)

Do I sand between coats?

Yes.

If so, 100 grit?

I'd use 220 grit.

Is this a something a do it yourselfer should even tackle?

Shouldn't be a problem if you have a relatively dust free environment. Polys have a slower dry time than some other products which gives the dust more time to settle on your finish. (Check directions. Polys have different time windows for applying subsequent coats. For example, you might need to apply second coat within 2 hours and if you can't do that there might be a wait of 24 hours.) Also, different stains have different wait times before you can apply top coat of any finish type. Oil based stains suggest 24 hour wait time, solvent based I think is 2 hours?

In other words, what do I need to be aware of if I tackle it?

Everything. After 35 years of experience, the finishing part of the job is the most unpredictable. It seems you can do everything correctly, and still incur a problem. In your situation, I'd ask a reputable local shop (if one is available) how much they'd charge to clearcoat the steps after YOU sand and stain the pieces. I sprayed conversion varnish (the material I use on my cabinets) on my stair treads 20 years ago to see how well it would hold up under heavy traffic conditions. I sprayed 3 coats. The advantage to such a material is it can be sanded and recoated as soon as 30-40 minutes dry time but you'd have to have some bad conditions to have to wait an hour. Still looks great. **poplar is not a good choice for stair treads, it's too soft. Use oak, or better yet hickory or maple. It's going to be difficult to get the bamboo and another wood to look the same. I'd go with a color that is drastically different from the bamboo, so it doesn't look you tried to match it and couldn't. Hope this helps.

 

[mlblack16.]

That's exactly what I have, dark and hard, just like Fever. Make sure you let the wood acclimate for as long as it takes, or you'll be in for a long term nightmare. Also, if you don't have a humidifier on your furnace, call your local HVAC person and get one installed ASAP. You must keep your home between 45 & 55 humidity level, or your boards will be a lovely mess.

good grief, do you honestly feel bamboo looks good enough to go through all that hassle and worry? I mean, I already have a humidification system on my furnace, but the little solenoid valve went bad one winter and it was running non-stop, so I just shut it off until I could get around to finding a new one online and replace it. I just think of what the hell I would need to do in a random situation like that.

 

[GK4Herd]

In my research I read the horror stories on dimensional instability of bamboo. This is why I went with engineered. The solid bamboo struggles in seasonal and humid climates. The engineered on the other hand doesn’t need to be acclimated. I also went with the 9/16 inch rather than the thinner solid bamboo. So I don’t think humidity will be an issue. In the pros and cons of engineered vs solid, dimensional stability was listed as a quality of engineered in every article.

There was also a difference between the strand woven and flat woven, with the strand woven being the hardest. All the recommendations were to go with a minimum 25 year guarantee and strand woven. What I bought has a 50 year residential guarantee. I will say I saw a lot of complaints about Cali Bamboo not standing behind the guarantee and blaming improper installation, even when done by professional contractors. But I saw that on all flooring and manufacturers...solid wood, engineered, and vinyl floorings.

 

[GK4Herd]

There is oil based poly and water based poly. Oil base-minimum 2 coats. Water based-minimum 3 coats (But check directions on can)



Yes.



I'd use 220 grit.



Shouldn't be a problem if you have a relatively dust free environment. Polys have a slower dry time than some other products which gives the dust more time to settle on your finish. (Check directions. Polys have different time windows for applying subsequent coats. For example, you might need to apply second coat within 2 hours and if you can't do that there might be a wait of 24 hours.) Also, different stains have different wait times before you can apply top coat of any finish type. Oil based stains suggest 24 hour wait time, solvent based I think is 2 hours?



Everything. After 35 years of experience, the finishing part of the job is the most unpredictable. It seems you can do everything correctly, and still incur a problem. In your situation, I'd ask a reputable local shop (if one is available) how much they'd charge to clearcoat the steps after YOU sand and stain the pieces. I sprayed conversion varnish (the material I use on my cabinets) on my stair treads 20 years ago to see how well it would hold up under heavy traffic conditions. I sprayed 3 coats. The advantage to such a material is it can be sanded and recoated as soon as 30-40 minutes dry time but you'd have to have some bad conditions to have to wait an hour. Still looks great. **poplar is not a good choice for stair treads, it's too soft. Use oak, or better yet hickory or maple. It's going to be difficult to get the bamboo and another wood to look the same. I'd go with a color that is drastically different from the bamboo, so it doesn't look you tried to match it and couldn't. Hope this helps.

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

I’m not sure if anyone locally could do a clear coat either. But I’d assume that once I got the cost, I’d be close enough to the cost of buying the finished product that it would be easier just to go ahead and do that.

Final question (maybe)...I saw videos of people using both brush and some type of squeegee (not sure if that’s spelled correctly, but I’ll just let my autocorrect...rifle...let me know) device to apply it. Obviously I couldn’t spray it if I did it myself, but is brush marks hard to overcome? The squeegee thing looked tricky.

 

[Dreh_Nagi_HC_IM]

good grief, do you honestly feel bamboo looks good enough to go through all that hassle and worry? I mean, I already have a humidification system on my furnace, but the little solenoid valve went bad one winter and it was running non-stop, so I just shut it off until I could get around to finding a new one online and replace it. I just think of what the hell I would need to do in a random situation like that.

It's not my fault that you didn't train your wife to be a plumber, electrician, cook, house cleaner, laundry engineer, and yard worker. I also trained mine to be a carpenter. She gives me wood.

 

[extragreen]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

I’m not sure if anyone locally could do a clear coat either. But I’d assume that once I got the cost, I’d be close enough to the cost of buying the finished product that it would be easier just to go ahead and do that.

Final question (maybe)...I saw videos of people using both brush and some type of squeegee (not sure if that’s spelled correctly, but I’ll just let my autocorrect...rifle...let me know) device to apply it. Obviously I couldn’t spray it if I did it myself, but is brush marks hard to overcome? The squeegee thing looked tricky.

You're welcome.

If you wanted to stain and spray the treads with conversion varnish, I'm guessing a gallon of stain would cost you $40, 2 gallons of conversion varnish would be about $100 total. If you're local, you can do the work in my shop if you're willing to drive to Wayne. I have the sanders and sprayers. If you use solvent based stain, it would probably take you all of one day and half the next. You would need to come back the next day to pick them up, so they have time to cure enough that they don't stick together.

I'm not the guy to talk to about using brushes, sponges, rollers, and squeegees. I just use them occasionally at home on small stuff.

 

[GreenDuke]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

I’m not sure if anyone locally could do a clear coat either. But I’d assume that once I got the cost, I’d be close enough to the cost of buying the finished product that it would be easier just to go ahead and do that.

Final question (maybe)...I saw videos of people using both brush and some type of squeegee (not sure if that’s spelled correctly, but I’ll just let my autocorrect...rifle...let me know) device to apply it. Obviously I couldn’t spray it if I did it myself, but is brush marks hard to overcome? The squeegee thing looked tricky.

You’re getting another 5% raise, hire a professional.